There is no better place for a midwinter golf trip than Rotorua – awesome golf courses, amazing hot pools and pubs and adventure activities. Golfer Pacific writer Peter Thornton recounts his trip

Rotorua is a magic golfing hotspot

When you head away in the middle of winter for a golf trip with the lads or gals you are always rolling the dice on what sort of weather you are going to get.

The weather patterns for my trip looked ominous but fortune favours the brave and there was plenty of optimism as we made the three-hour journey south to Rotorua.

Making the trip were good mates James Dunlop and Chris Brookbanks – both handy golfers in their own right – and my father Richard Thornton, who has a longtime connection to Rotorua.

His dad, Neville Thornton, was an All Black in the 1940s and a principal at Rotorua Boys' High School. Grandad played every week at Arikikapakapa and our family had countless winter holidays here.

What better place to take the old man for a walk down memory lane. Life is short and I know I need to treasure these trips with my great mate who introduced me to the game I love. I was sure of one thing; the beers would go down well if I could beat dad around here.

The format was simple. We’d play matchplay in pairs, with the best total winning the hole. The losers would buy two rounds of beer and hear about their loss until the next one.

The scene for our battle were the Lakeview Golf and Country Club and Arikikapakapa (Rotorua Golf Club). Two courses contrasting in nature – the flat and geothermal Arikikapakapa and the undulating Lakeview – but both brilliant and a memorable experience.

We needed an Ark

When we arrived in Rotorua, torrential rain was hitting the windshield, and the streets were flooded. We paid a quick visit to Arikikapakapa and the course was completely under water. The lads in the pro shop said it should be right by tomorrow, but we were all sceptical.

On days like this, you can’t do much, so we went to see F1 at the Reading Cinema – which is a brilliant film – and then hit the driving range.

After settling into our accommodation, we made our way out to dinner to the Pig & Whistle Historic Pub. It’s a lovely feeling walking to dinner and it stirs memories of when I used to live in Ireland, and we’d frequent the pubs in our street most nights.

The Pig & Whistle is a local landmark. It used to be the city police station. It’s architecture dates to the 1940s and it’s a lively atmosphere -- there is always something going on.

One look at the menu and our mouths were watering. I settled on the pulled pork burger and curly fries with a pint of Panhead. The food was delicious and the service was out of the top drawer.

As we made the walk back to the hotel, there was a faint, misty rain and we were hoping and praying that it would clear for the morning.

A historic course

Seeing the Rotorua Golf Club bounce back from the storm was like a magic trick. We pulled into the carpark at 9am and the deluge of water from the day before was gone. It was remarkable.

This club holds a special place in the New Zealand golfing landscape.

Arikikapakapa, the home of Rotorua golf, was established in 1906, and it will celebrate 120 years as a club next year. Around the 1930s, the course was remodelled by Charles Redhead, a golf course architect whose work greatly influenced New Zealand courses during that period.

Rotorua has been visited by many famous golfers over the years, including seven-time major winner Gene Sarazen in 1934 and Bobby Locke (four major championships) and Australian legend Norman von Nida in 1938.

The club has also developed many excellent players, among them Jane Little (nee Butler), the first New Zealand lady to turn professional, and Brenda Ormsby, who won three New Zealand matchplay titles, and the New Zealand strokeplay title no fewer than seven times.

Caption: The 16th hole at Rotorua Golf Club, Arik,’ is rated as the second hardest hole on the course and with good reason. It’s a left to right dogleg around the lake.

I have my own history with this place. When I was working for Phillip Leishman’s golf show on SKY Sport, we filmed a course profile and were in awe of this place.

We arrived first thing in the morning, with a light frosting on the fairways, and the sight of the geothermal lakes billowing steam across the property is something I’ll never forget.

I don’t think there is another course like it in Aotearoa, perhaps the world. I thought to myself back then, I’d love to come back to Rotorua for a boys’ trip to have a battle on this layout and 20 years later, here we are.

The boys are keen to post a good number in the opening round of the trip. Jimmy and I team up to take on dad and Chris. It’s only 5607 metres off the white tees and relatively forgiving. Arikikapakapa is a thoroughly interesting and enjoyable par 70 layout.

There is a plethora of good holes here and Chris and dad are straight into their work with a birdie and par respectively to open their day.

The par four third gets your attention. It’s around 200 metres to carry the small stream that swallows plenty of golf balls. Your second is around a seven iron into an elevated green with a bunker on the front right. It’s rated as the hardest hole on the course.

Chris is carrying on his form from the driving range and delivers moments of magic like a 30-foot putt for par on the eighth as he and dad went one up.

The ninth is a cool par three with trouble surrounding the green – this hole once featured on a New Zealand postage stamp. It measures 161 metres from the white tees and is a good test. Jimmy hit his tee shot into the hazard on the left and then hit an incredible third shot from 100 metres into the flagstick for a kick-in bogey. It was back to all square.

It was that sort of match -- the lead went back and forward all day.

A magical closing stretch

When you get onto the back nine the course tightens up with a number of tree-lined par fours.

The signature hole is the par three 14th. The hole, known as Crater, requires a tee shot over a large geothermal lake with bunkers around the right of the green. It is only 155 metres from the white tees, but it’s an intimidating shot.

I hit a six iron to just short of the green and then chipped in for a memorable birdie which we probably over-celebrated. The 14th sets up one of the best finishing stretches in New Zealand golf and it is a great place for a three hole challenge – that is everyone puts in $10 and the player with the fewest strokes from the final three holes (less shots) take the pot.

The 16th hole, Ariki, is rated as the second hardest hole on the course and with good reason. It’s a left to right dogleg around the lake. When I make bogey here, it is enough for a 3 and 2 win for the beers.

The 17th Kapakapa is a delightful par three that measures 152 metres from the white tees – where Chris and I traded pars. And the closing hole is a gem. Walking down that final fairway, with the historic clubhouse within reach, surrounded by geothermal activity, is one of the best experiences in New Zealand golf.

The signature hole known at the Rotorua Golf Club is without doubt the par three 14th. The hole known as Crater and requires a tee shot over the large geothermal lake that has bunkers around the right of the green. Photo credit: Mark Smith Photography.

On the 18th tee, Chris held a one-shot lead in the three-hole challenge before I made a 20-foot putt for par to claim the spoils.

The clubhouse quite fittingly is a nod to yesteryear. Inside you can read about the history of this place and the famous names who have graced these fairways. I love this golf course, and I can see why my grandad enjoyed being a member here for many years.

It’s special marking our round with a couple of cold pints of Asahi. You’ll get a pleasant surprise coming to Rotorua – Arikikapakapa is only $65, and Lakeview is $50 (both for affiliated) – making these courses superb value for money.

Right in the heart of the action

During our time in Rotorua, we stayed at Aura Accommodation which is in the heart of the city. Just down the road are the historic and picturesque Government Gardens and Lake Rotorua.

Chris and I began each morning with a run around the city and down to the lake. With the sun coming up there is no better way to start the day.

I ran the Rotorua Half Marathon here last year and I have great memories of this part of town and coming down to the finish line through the Arch at the gateway of the Government Gardens.

We had two one-bedroom apartments and there was plenty of room and comfort. It was a great spot to relax over a couple of quiet beers and a card game of 500.

In the courtyard there is a lovely, heated swimming pool and a barbeque and it would be a great family vacation spot, no matter what season you visit.

Skyline Rotorua

You have to visit Skyline Rotorua if you come to Rotorua. Skyline Rotorua has been a landmark seemingly forever. There is a huge amount of excitement as we take the Gondola to the top of the hill. The view up from up there, as the sun is going down, is unbelievable.

Flying down the luge brings out that big kid in all of us. And taking it on with the lads hits different than it does with the family. There is more of an edge to it as you try to get to the bottom as fast as possible and that makes it a wild and super fun ride.

Jimmy is a part-time rally car driver and showed no fear on his rapid descent to the bottom and was matched by Chris who can’t contain his super-competitive spirit.

A meal fit for kings

Every golf trip we go on to regions of Aotearoa, visiting the local pubs and restaurants is a special part of the experience.

Our second dinner was at The Fainting Goat, which again was within walking distance from our hotel. It is a modern gastropub with heaps of atmosphere, and we were given a warm welcome.

I love my craft beer, so it was a great sight to see The Goat have some of my favourites on tap – the likes of Sawmill Hazy IPA and Garage Project Pernicious Weed Hazy IPA.

We got into a round of beers and ordered The Goats’ Tribe platter and a gourmet pizza. The platter was at another level with the most generous serving I have ever seen. It came complete with chicken wings, sticky pork ribs and braised brisket.

It was a meal fit for kings and has become a must-do experience when you are in Rotorua. The waiting and bar staff were superb and it’s easy to see why it’s full on a Saturday night.

Following dinner, it was time for a much-needed visit to the hot pools. The Polynesian Spa is a popular spot for locals and visitors to the region.

This is one of the highlights of coming to Rotorua in the winter months. You brave the elements in a hike, trail run, mountain-bike or some quality golf in the elements, and it’s a great way to finish the day and get your warmth and energy back.

Sitting in the pools, we reminisced about the highs and lows of the opening round and talked about the teams for day two. It was a fitting end to an extraordinary day.

A bizarre and fun activity

Caption: Fancy a ride in a balloon? This is one of the tracks where you can do so at ZORB in Rotorua.

On a boys’ trip it is always good to get out of your comfort zone, and it’s fair to say that this activity was a step into the unknown.

Diving into a giant inflatable ball and rolling down Mt Ngongotahā with ZORB Rotorua was an unforgettable experience. It was a super-fun experience and a magic way to spend a couple of hours, and it would be awesome doing this with your kids.

There are four different tracks to choose from and all of them are awesome. The MEGA Track is the longest, fastest and steepest track and it gets your attention.

The kicker is the ZORB balls are full of 40 litres of water (warm in winter and cold in summer). Rotorua is the only location in New Zealand where you can experience this bizarre and fun activity.

Lakeview Golf and Country Club

Caption: Hole No 6 at Lakeview is rated as the hardest hole on the golf course. It measures 371 metres from the white tees and finishes with a tricky green.

As we pulled into the Lakeview Golf and Country Club we were treated to a beautiful panoramic view of Lake Rotorua in the distance.

It’s the final day of the trip and we’re keen to finish on a high note in the cool conditions.

I have a goal of playing every golf course in Aotearoa. There are around 400 of them and I have played more than 100 so it is always nice to tick another club off the list.

For the second match, I teamed up with Chris against dad and Jimmy and I had a feeling it was going to be a good day when I opened with a par.

One of the best holes arrives early in the round. The par three second measures 175 metres from the white tees. It’s a daunting tee shot with a carry-over bush. If you make a three here it’s a score to be proud of. We struggled early in the cold and wet conditions but soon found some magic.

My favourite hole at Lakeview was number six. It’s rated as the hardest hole on the golf course and at 383 metres it requires a couple of good shots to make the green in two.

You come to realise that the course is laden with risk and reward opportunities, where you can make a birdie or a double bogey if you don’t get it quite right. It makes for a thoroughly enjoyable round and every hole feels like an adventure.

Its tree-lined and undulating. You may look at the yardage and think you’ll burn it up, but Lakeview is a good challenge.

Chris made a superb par on the tight and challenging par four 11th and Jimmy had his best moment of the day with a great putt for birdie from 15 feet on the 12th. The game is going down to the wire.

Caption: Lakeview Golf and Country, just a 15-minute drive from Rotorua city, offers some stunning views down to Lake Rotorua.

The par five 15th is a pleasure to play. It’s a relatively short par five off the whites at 458 metres and it invites you to smash one from the tee to a forgiving fairway. The bigger hitters can take on the green in two, but the fairway is covered in undulations so finding a flat lie is a challenge.

When we win the par four 16th, Chris and I are dormy two up and talking about our beers. But the old man and Jimmy stage an impressive comeback. Dad chipped in on the 17th for par and then Jimmy came up with an outlandish chip from the bush to also save par.

Dad continued that form on No 18 with a fine up and down from the front of the green for par, which helped them halve the match.

Of course, there was another three hole challenge in the mix and Jimmy held a two-shot lead on the 18th tee. I was hanging in there and was fortunate to make a 36-foot putt on the last for birdie to claim the $30 by one stroke from dad. It’s a putt that I’ll never forget.

Over the beers – in the newly completed clubhouse that has been four years in the making – we are happy and content with both our rounds in testing conditions.

We pack up the car and get ready to get back to reality. Rotorua has well and truly delivered on its reputation as one of our best tourism spots.

The golf was incredible, the hot pools and pubs laid it on and there was more than enough adventure to test the boys’ nerve and have some brilliant banter.

If you’re planning your next golfing getaway then add Rotorua to your list, you can’t go wrong here. It’s the perfect place to escape and have an adventure in the winter months.

Footnote: A special thanks to Alex Evans, the marketing and communicationsexecutive for RotoruaNZ for coordinating our trip to Rotorua.